Tilicho Lake: The High Side Trip from Manang

West of Manang, tucked beneath the north face of Tilicho Peak, lies a lake of an almost unreal blue. At about 4,920 metres, Tilicho is often described as one of the highest lakes of its size anywhere. Reaching it adds three days to the Annapurna Circuit, and for many trekkers those days become the high point of the whole journey.

Where it fits

The detour leaves the main trail at Manang and rejoins it at Yak Kharka, on the way to the Thorong La. It works well as acclimatisation: you climb to nearly 5,000 metres, sleep lower, and arrive at the pass better adapted than those who went straight up.

Stage by stage

Manang to Shree Kharka (3–4 hours). The trail heads west along the valley to the old village of Khangsar, with its flat-roofed stone houses and monastery, then climbs to a pair of lodges at Shree Kharka, around 4,050 metres. An easy day.

Shree Kharka to Tilicho Base Camp (3–4 hours). This is the section people talk about. The path crosses a long slope of loose scree and eroded pinnacles high above the river, a landscape that looks half melted. The trail is narrow, and stones sometimes roll down from above, particularly in the afternoon when the sun loosens the slope and in windy or wet weather. Cross early in the day, keep moving through the exposed parts, leave space between walkers and watch the slope above you.

Base Camp, at about 4,150 metres, is a small group of lodges in a bleak, impressive valley. Rooms are basic and it is cold.

Base Camp to the lake and back (5–7 hours). Start before dawn. The trail climbs in long zigzags for about 800 metres, steep and tiring in the thin air. Near the top it eases across a plateau and the lake comes into view, backed by a wall of ice. A viewpoint with prayer flags and a seasonal tea hut overlooks the shore.

Wind rises strongly by late morning, so aim to be at the lake by eight or nine and heading down soon after. Return to Base Camp for lunch, and if you have the energy, continue back across the scree to Shree Kharka for a warmer night.

Shree Kharka to Yak Kharka (4–5 hours). A high trail contours around the hillside, crosses a river on a suspension bridge and climbs to join the main circuit, saving the walk back to Manang.

How hard is it?

The lake day is strenuous. You are climbing at nearly 5,000 metres, often in cold and wind, on a path that may hold snow or ice outside the main season. The scree traverse requires a steady head. No technical skills are needed, but this is not a stroll, and a guide who knows current trail conditions is valuable.

Do not attempt it without at least two nights at Manang's altitude first.

When the lake is at its best

• October and November: open water of deep blue-green, clear skies, the most reliable conditions.

• Late April and May: the lake is usually still frozen or partly frozen, a white expanse with patches of turquoise. Snow may lie on the upper trail.

• December to March: frozen solid, lodges mostly closed, deep snow and serious cold.

• Monsoon: wet, with increased rockfall on the scree section.

What to carry

Warm layers including a down jacket, hat and gloves, a windproof shell, sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen for the glare, a headlamp, at least a litre and a half of water, and snacks. Trekking poles help greatly on the descent. In shoulder seasons, slip-on traction devices are worth having.

The legend

Hindu tradition links the lake with an episode in the Ramayana, and pilgrims occasionally make the journey. For the Buddhist villagers of Khangsar it has long been a place of quiet reverence. Swimming and washing in the water are discouraged.

Continuing over the Mesokanto pass

A route continues from the lake over high passes directly to Jomsom. It is remote, glaciated in parts and has no lodges. This is expedition territory requiring camping gear, an experienced guide and good conditions. Most trekkers return to the main circuit.

Should you add it?

If you have three spare days, are coping well with altitude and want something wilder than the main trail, yes. The combination of the strange scree country, the stark base camp valley and the lake itself is unlike anything else on the circuit.

If your schedule is tight or you are struggling at Manang, skip it. The Thorong La is the priority, and arriving there rested matters more than adding another objective.