Tiji in Lo Manthang: Three Days of Masked Dance in Upper Mustang

In the square before the old royal palace of Lo Manthang, at about 3,800 metres in the high desert of Upper Mustang, monks in brocade robes and painted masks dance for three days each spring. The festival is called Tiji, a local shortening of a Tibetan phrase meaning "prayer for world peace". It is one of the most remote and visually arresting festivals in Nepal, and the journey to reach it is a large part of the experience.

The story the dances tell

Tiji re-enacts a myth. A demon was laying waste to the land of Mustang, bringing drought and disease and destroying the water on which life in this dry country depends. The deity Dorje Jono was reborn as the demon's own son in order to defeat him. Through a series of dances that grow in power, he overcomes his father and drives him from the kingdom, restoring the rains and the harvest.

The ritual is performed by monks of the Sakya school from the town's main monastery. One monk, chosen for the role, spends months in retreat preparing to dance the part of Dorje Jono.

The three days

Day one. In the afternoon, a giant painted scroll depicting Padmasambhava, the master who brought Buddhism to Tibet, is unrolled down the southern wall of the square. Monks with long copper horns, double-reed pipes, drums and cymbals take their places. The dancers enter in elaborate costumes and perform a slow, stately sequence of steps that sets out the threat of the demon.

Day two. The main dance, nga chham, portrays the birth of Dorje Jono and his struggle. Dancers appear in the masks of animals and fierce protector deities. The demon is represented by a small effigy made of dough.

Day three. In the concluding ritual, the effigy is attacked and destroyed. The procession then moves outside the town walls, where the lead dancer shoots arrows and hurls offerings to dispatch the last of the evil, and local men fire old muskets into the air. The demon is banished for another year.

Throughout, the townspeople of Lo Manthang and villagers from across the region gather in their best clothes: women in striped aprons and turquoise-studded headdresses, men in long woollen coats. Members of the former royal family, who retain great respect locally, traditionally preside.

When it is held

Tiji takes place over the last three days of the third month of the Tibetan calendar, which usually falls in May. The exact dates are announced by the monastery some months ahead. Check them before booking anything, as they change every year.

Getting there

Lo Manthang lies deep in the restricted area north of Kagbeni.

• By jeep. A dirt road runs from Jomsom to Lo Manthang. The drive takes one to two days, with overnight stops advisable for acclimatisation.

• On foot. The traditional trek from Kagbeni takes four to five days each way through villages and over a string of passes.

• Getting to Jomsom. Fly from Pokhara in the morning, weather permitting, or drive up the Kali Gandaki valley in a long day.

A typical festival itinerary lasts ten to fourteen days from Kathmandu, timed to arrive in Lo Manthang the day before the dances begin.

Permits and bookings

Upper Mustang requires a restricted area permit, which since 2026 has been charged at a daily rate for each day spent in the zone, in addition to the Annapurna Conservation Area permit. Both must be arranged through a registered agency, and a licensed guide is compulsory.

Lo Manthang has a limited number of lodges, and Tiji is the busiest week of its year. Rooms are reserved months in advance by trekking companies. Book early, expect simple accommodation and be prepared to share.

What to expect on the ground

• Altitude. You will be at nearly 3,800 metres. Ascend gradually, especially if driving.

• Weather. Days are sunny and warm in the square, with fierce ultraviolet light. Wind rises in the afternoon and nights are cold. Bring sun protection, a scarf against dust and warm layers.

• Long sittings. Dances last several hours. Spectators sit on the ground, on walls and on rooftops. Carry water and something to sit on.

• Crowding. The square is small. Arrive early for a good position and do not block the view of local people, for whom this is a religious rite.

Why make the journey

Tiji is not staged for visitors. It is the principal ritual of a community that depends on scarce water, performed in the same square for centuries. With snow peaks on the horizon, the walled town behind and horns echoing off mud-brick walls, it offers a glimpse of a Himalayan Buddhist world that survives here in rare completeness.