Shuklaphanta: Swamp Deer and Open Grasslands in Nepal's Far Corner

Chitwan is busy and Bardia is quiet. Shuklaphanta is quieter still. This national park occupies the extreme south-west of Nepal, close to the Indian border, and is centred on an expanse of open grassland that has no equal elsewhere in the country. People who enjoy wide horizons and large herds, and do not mind long journeys, will find it memorable.

What sets it apart

The word phanta means grassland, and the main one here stretches for kilometres, flat and golden, edged by sal forest. Most lowland parks in Nepal are a patchwork of tall grass and trees in which animals are glimpsed. At Shuklaphanta you can stand on a viewing tower and watch hundreds of deer at once.

The park is best known for swamp deer, a large, heavily antlered species that has disappeared from most of its former range. The population here numbers around two thousand, the largest single herd of its kind anywhere. Seeing them move across the plain at dawn is the signature experience.

Other wildlife

• Tigers. The park supports a healthy population relative to its size. Sightings are uncommon but tracks are often found on the jeep roads.

• Elephants. Wild herds move through, some crossing from India.

• Rhinoceros. A small number, reintroduced from Chitwan.

• Deer and antelope. Spotted deer, hog deer, barking deer and blue bull.

• Leopard, sloth bear, wild boar and otter.

• Birds. Well over four hundred species. The grasslands are among the last strongholds of the Bengal florican, a critically endangered bustard, and hold several other rare grassland birds. A lake in the forest attracts waterfowl and crocodiles.

Exploring the park

Jeep safari is the main way in. A network of tracks links the central grassland, lookout towers, the lake and river areas. A half day covers the core; a full day reaches further.

Viewing towers let you scan the grassland with binoculars at leisure. Early morning and late afternoon are best.

Walking and birdwatching are possible with guides in the buffer zone and along the park edge.

A licensed guide is required, and foreign visitors pay a daily park entry fee. Because visitor numbers are low, you may see no other vehicles all day.

Where to stay

The usual base is Mahendranagar, also called Bhimdatta, a border town a few kilometres from the park entrance, with ordinary hotels. A small number of lodges and community homestays operate closer to the park, some run by Tharu families from the western subgroup, whose villages are worth a visit in their own right. Facilities are plain. Arrange safaris through your accommodation or the park office.

Getting there

• By air: fly from Kathmandu to Dhangadhi, a little over an hour, then drive west for about an hour and a half.

• By road from Bardia: around four to five hours along the East-West Highway.

• From India: the border crossing near Mahendranagar connects with the Indian town of Banbasa, which has transport links to Delhi. Travellers entering Nepal overland from the west pass the park gate.

• By bus from Kathmandu: a journey of fifteen hours or more.

When to go

• February to April: the best period. Old grass is cut and burned early in the year, fresh shoots draw the deer into the open, and visibility is excellent. April is hot.

• October to January: pleasant weather with taller grass. Winter mornings are foggy.

• May and June: extreme heat.

• July to September: monsoon; much of the park floods and is closed to vehicles.

Practical notes

• Bring binoculars; distances are long.

• Carry enough cash. ATMs exist in Mahendranagar but not near the park.

• Few people in the area speak much English. A guide arranged in advance helps.

• Use insect repellent and wear long sleeves in the evening.

• Check current rules on entry points and timings with the park office.

Is it worth the journey?

For a first visit to Nepal, probably not; Chitwan or Bardia will give you the lowland jungle with less travel. For a second or third visit, or for anyone with a particular interest in deer, grassland birds or simply empty space, yes.

There is a moment, on the central tower just after sunrise, when mist lifts off the plain and the whole herd is revealed, stags with their antlers raised, calves among the hinds, stretching back to the tree line. It is one of the great wildlife scenes of the subcontinent, and on most mornings almost nobody is there to see it.