Chitlang and Markhu: A Village Weekend Over the Hill from Kathmandu

Until the 1950s, the only way into the Kathmandu Valley from the south was on foot over a pass on the Chandragiri ridge. Everything came that way, including the first motor cars, which were carried up in pieces by teams of porters. On the far side of the pass, the old trail descends to Chitlang, a village that prospered as a staging post and then, when the highway was built elsewhere, was left in peace. It is now one of the most popular short escapes from the city.

Chitlang

The village lies in a broad, green valley at about 1,750 metres, in Makwanpur district. It is a mix of Newar, Tamang and other communities, with brick and mud houses, terraced fields of vegetables and maize, and orchards of pears and plums.

Things to see and do:

• The old trade route. Sections of the stone-paved path survive, along with rest houses and water spouts built for travellers. A small shrine and a mound in the village are linked by local tradition with the emperor Ashoka.

• The goat cheese farm. A local farmer who trained abroad set up a dairy producing French-style goat cheese, among the first of its kind in Nepal. Visitors can see the goats and buy cheese when it is available.

• Orchards. In late summer the trees are heavy with pears; some families make fruit wine and brandy.

• Village walks. Paths lead to Tamang hamlets, small temples and viewpoints over the valley.

• Farm life. Many homestays invite guests to help in the fields, milk a cow or cook on a wood fire.

Getting there on foot

The enjoyable way to arrive is to walk the historic route.

1. Travel to Thankot, on the western edge of Kathmandu, and take the cable car to the top of Chandragiri, or hike up through the forest.

2. From the ridge, follow the trail down the southern side through oak and rhododendron woods.

3. Reach Chitlang in two to three hours of mostly downhill walking.

The path is clear but steep in places and slippery after rain. In spring the forest is in flower.

A rough road also crosses the ridge further west, and jeeps run from Thankot to Chitlang in about ninety minutes.

Markhu and the reservoir

From Chitlang, a walk of around two hours, or a short drive, leads down the valley to Markhu, on the shore of a long, winding reservoir created by a hydroelectric dam at Kulekhani. Locals call it Indra Sarovar.

The lake has become a weekend destination in its own right. Rowing boats and small motorboats are for hire, fish from the reservoir is fried and served at lakeside restaurants, and a long suspension footbridge crosses an arm of the water. Lodges and homestays line the shore. On Saturdays it is busy with groups from Kathmandu; on weekdays it is calm.

Returning to Kathmandu

Three options:

• Back the way you came, over Chandragiri.

• By road via the south. A hill road runs from the reservoir to Pharping and Dakshinkali and on into the valley, taking two to three hours. This makes a satisfying loop.

• By local bus or shared jeep from Markhu or Chitlang, which are slower and crowded.

Where to stay

Chitlang has a well-developed network of homestays and small farm resorts. Expect a simple room, shared or attached bathroom, and generous home-cooked meals using garden produce. Several places describe themselves as organic farms. Markhu's lodges are similar, with the addition of lake views. Book ahead for Friday and Saturday nights.

When to go

• October to December: clear, cool and dry.

• March to May: warm, with blossom in the orchards and forest.

• August and September: pear season; green and wet.

• January and February: cold nights, bright days. Frost is common.

• Monsoon: trails are muddy and roads can be cut by slides.

What to bring

Walking shoes, a warm layer, a rain jacket in the wet months, a torch and cash. There are no ATMs.

Why it works

Chitlang offers a change of scene out of all proportion to the distance. Three hours after leaving a city of traffic and dust, you are in a valley where the loudest noise is a dog. The history of the trail gives the walk a purpose, the food is fresh, and the lake adds a second day. For residents of Kathmandu it is a favourite weekend. For visitors with two spare days and no wish to go far, it deserves to be.