Annapurna Base Camp: Walking into the Sanctuary

There is a moment on the Annapurna Base Camp trek, somewhere above the last trees, when the valley walls fall back and you realise you are standing inside a bowl of ice and rock with mountains on every side. The Annapurna Sanctuary is a high glacial basin entered by a single narrow gorge, and reaching it on foot is one of the most satisfying week-long walks in the Himalaya.

The basics

• Highest point: Annapurna Base Camp, 4,130 metres.

• Walking days: seven to ten, depending on the start point and pace.

• Start and finish: villages in the Modi Khola valley, two to three hours by road from Pokhara.

• Style: lodge to lodge, with meals and beds available throughout.

Lower section: farmland and stairs

Most itineraries now begin with a jeep ride to a roadhead near Ghandruk or to Jhinu Danda, where a very long suspension footbridge spans the river. From either, the trail climbs through terraced fields and Gurung villages to Chhomrong, at about 2,170 metres.

Chhomrong is the last permanent village and the gateway to the gorge. It sits on a steep hillside, and both entering and leaving involve descending hundreds of stone steps to a river and climbing as many again on the far side. Everyone remembers these steps on the way back.

Middle section: the gorge

Beyond Chhomrong the path enters dense forest of bamboo, oak and rhododendron, climbing steadily beside the Modi Khola. Lodge clusters appear every hour or two, with names such as Sinuwa, Bamboo, Dobhan, Himalaya and Deurali. The valley is narrow and damp, the trail often wet, and waterfalls streak the cliffs. Langur monkeys are common.

Above Dobhan a small shrine marks the point where the valley is considered sacred ground. By local custom, certain meats are not carried or eaten beyond here, and lodges higher up serve mostly vegetarian food. Respecting this costs nothing.

Upper section: into the open

From Deurali, at about 3,200 metres, the trees end. The trail crosses the river and climbs through a rocky defile to Machhapuchhre Base Camp at 3,700 metres, a group of lodges beneath the Fishtail peak. Nobody climbs the mountain itself; it has been closed to mountaineers for decades out of respect for its sanctity.

The final two hours rise gently over moraine and grass to Annapurna Base Camp. A cluster of lodges stands on a rise facing the south face of Annapurna I, the tenth-highest mountain in the world, with Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhre completing the circle.

Stay the night. At sunset the walls glow orange, and at dawn the first light strikes Annapurna I while the basin is still blue with cold.

The avalanche zone

The stretch between Deurali and Machhapuchhre Base Camp runs beneath steep slopes that release avalanches, mainly after heavy snowfall in winter and spring. Lodge owners and guides know the conditions and will advise when to cross, which is normally early in the morning. In risky periods the trail is rerouted along the opposite bank. Take local advice seriously and do not linger in this section.

Altitude

The climb from Chhomrong to base camp gains nearly 2,000 metres in three days, which is fast. Many people feel a headache or poor sleep at Machhapuchhre Base Camp or above. Adding a night at Deurali or Himalaya helps. If symptoms worsen, descend; relief comes quickly on this route because the valley drops steeply.

The way back

Most trekkers return down the same gorge to Chhomrong, then take a different exit. A popular choice is the steep descent to Jhinu Danda, where natural hot springs beside the river are a fifteen-minute walk below the lodges. Soaking tired legs there on the last evening is a tradition. From Jhinu, jeeps return to Pokhara.

When to go

October and November are clearest and busiest; lodges at the top can fill, and sharing rooms is common. March and April are warmer with rhododendron blossom lower down and lingering snow higher up. Winter is cold, with deep snow possible above Deurali. The monsoon brings rain, leeches and cloud.

Who it suits

Annapurna Base Camp suits walkers who are comfortable with long days of steps and want a real sense of arrival. It is not technically difficult, and the lodges are good. The demands are stamina, sensible pacing and warm clothing for the top, where nights are well below freezing for much of the year.

Combining routes

With extra days, start with the Ghorepani and Poon Hill loop and join the base camp trail at Chhomrong. Together they make a ten to twelve day circuit covering both the classic viewpoint and the heart of the range.